So, why Nerja? Well, by October we were craving a little warmth, and after nearly two years of Duolingo, my husband and I were itching to put our Spanish to the test. Southern Spain felt like the obvious choice—sunshine, tapas, and the chance to see if we could manage more than “dos cervezas, por favor.”
Nerja popped onto our radar thanks to a fleeting glimpse on Amanda & Alan’s Spanish Job house renovation TV show. Just a few seconds of tiny sandy coves and sparkling sea, but it was enough—we thought, that looks beautiful, and so a plan was put in motion.
For our stay, I booked a villa through Casasol, a rental company that specialises in Nerja. It couldn’t have been more perfect. A home base with all the comforts we needed, in a town that promised sunshine, charm, and the chance to stumble through our Spanish.
Blog Contents
Nerja: Day 1 – Sand, Paella & Tinto Verano
Nerja: Day 2 – Caves, Aquaducts & Baywatch
Nerja: Day 3 – Granada & the Jewels of the Alhambra
Nerja: Day 4 – Markets, Tapas & Tiny Coves
Nerja: Day 5 – Dolphins, Downpours & Dramatic Skies
Nerja: Day 6 – Adrenaline & Absolute Chill
Nerja: Day 7 – Frigiliana Charm & a Candlelit Finale
Nerja: Day 1 – Sand, Paella & Tinto Verano
Our adventure began with a lovely touch of Spanish hospitality. The villa company, Casasol, sent us a WhatsApp the night before to introduce themselves and check our ETA. Amazingly, the villa was ready by midday—such a rare treat! It felt like we’d gained a whole extra day of holiday.
Before tackling the terrifyingly steep (and slightly ramshackle) road up to our villa, we made a quick stop at Playa Güilche, the little sandy beach at the bottom of the hill. The water was crystal clear, dotted with rocks and shimmering turquoise. It was one of those “yes, we’ve arrived” moments.
Once the hire car was unpacked, it was time for lunch at Playa Paradiso, the beachside BBQ restaurant Chiringuito Mauri. Right on the sand, with a gigantic paella bubbling away outside, and sardines and octopus sizzling on the grill, it was everything you could hope for in a Spanish seaside lunch. And then came the revelation: Tinto de Verano. Red wine mixed with Fanta. Yes, it sounds a little mad, but trust me—it’s refreshing, delicious, and became the first of many on this trip! Lunch was followed, naturally, by a dip in the sea.
We rounded off the day with a dunk in the pool and a simple tea of Spanish cheeses and meats on the terrace, watching the sun set over Nerja. Bliss. By then, it felt a very long time since our 03:15 start back in Bristol.
Nerja: Day 2 - Caves, Aquaducts & Baywatch
Day two began with a real showstopper: the Nerja Caves. Twisting and climbing down, down, down the stairs, we found ourselves in the most glorious caverns I’ve ever visited. The stalactites and stalagmites were enormous—some as thick as ancient oak trees. In places, the rock formations rippled like folds of fabric, or dripped like candle wax from a giant candelabra. One section even looked eerily like the dementors from Harry Potter, hovering in stone. It was breathtaking.
After exploring, we treated ourselves in the café: the fluffiest doughnut imaginable and, for something a little different – gin and tonic ice pops. We also tried the VR experience, donning goggles and headphones while swivelling in our chairs to watch a 360° video about the caves’ history. It felt like travelling back in time, watching the caverns evolve around us.
On the way back into town, we stopped at the Aqueduct del Águila (Eagle Aqueduct). Heading down a track, we walked right underneath its elaborate arches, gazing up at the intricate design. As if that wasn’t enough, we spotted something unexpected across the valley—a little home built into a cave, complete with a front door perched high above. It felt like stumbling across a secret. Since we were already on the eastern side of Nerja, we wandered over to Playa de Burriana for a stroll along the seafront and a leisurely lunch at Playa & Sol, while our son happily skimmed stones into the sea between courses.
Later, we returned to Playa Güilche with plans for a swim, but the sea had transformed—waves crashing, rocks hidden beneath the surf—so we opted for a coastal walk instead. We rounded the headland to Playa Vilches, where we took turns posing in the empty lifeguard chair, as if we were extras in Baywatch.
Nerja: Day 3 – Granada & the Jewels of the Alhambra
Day three took us on a little road trip inland, up to Granada. With a motorway closure, we detoured past the striking Presa de Beznar dam—a dramatic sweep of concrete against the valley, worth the pause before continuing on.
Our focus, of course, was the Alhambra. Tickets had been booked well in advance (thank goodness, as there didn’t seem to be any available on the day), and we began at the Generalife gardens.
Shady cypress trees kept everything beautifully cool, and the gardens were full of colourful blooms and pomegranate bushes. From here, the views across to the Alhambra itself were glorious. The Patio de la Acequia courtyard was packed with tour groups, but worth braving the bustle to see the reflecting pools shimmering in the sunlight.
Next, we crossed to the Alhambra proper, climbing the hill to enter the Palacios Nazaries. And wow. The intricate plasterwork, the geometric tiles, the Moorish arches—it was breathtaking. The Patio de los Leones (Patio of Lions) was the highlight: a courtyard of delicate arches and pillars, with streams and fountains trickling quietly around a central fountain guarded by a circle of lions. They looked almost cartoon-like, but in the most enchanting way. I can only imagine how serene it must feel here at the end of the day, once the crowds have melted away.
Throughout the palace, ornate ceilings and marquetry doors dazzled us, while carved window shades spilled soft light into hidden sanctums. At one point, peeking through a small window from a high floor, we saw the outside of the domed roofs—retro stone submarines perched above the palace. A quirky surprise!
We then moved on to the Palacio de Carlos V. From the outside, it’s a grand square building, but inside lies a perfect rotunda with colonnades all around. The circular “tunnel” outside the central rotunda was so perfectly rounded it looked like a giant ring donut.
Finally, we explored the Alcazaba, the fortress section of the Alhambra. Very different from the delicate palaces, this was built for defence and battle—solid, imposing, and powerful.
By the end of the day, we were exhausted but utterly mesmerised. Granada had dazzled us, and the Alhambra was every bit as magical as we’d hoped.
Nerja: Day 4 - Markets, Tapas & Tiny Coves
Tuesday is market day in Nerja, and we couldn’t resist joining the bustle. Stalls piled high with fresh fruit tempted us at every turn, and we came away with bags of juicy mangoes plus a few beautifully carved wooden kitchen implements—because who doesn’t love a practical souvenir?
From there, we headed into the heart of Nerja and struck gold with a perfect car park tucked beneath the Plaza España, right by the famous Balcon de Europa. It felt like we’d parked right in the middle of the action.
Lunch was at Lamalaka, perched above Playa Calahonda. With views straight out over the sand and sea, we tucked into tapas that were far too generous in size (but delicious all the same). Afterwards, we wandered down to the beach itself, weaving our way between massive rocks and discovering tiny hidden coves that opened onto the sparkling Mediterranean. Each one felt like a secret pocket of paradise.
We rounded off the afternoon with ice creams in the shade of the Balcon de Europa, listening to parakeet’s chatter in the palm trees overhead while gazing out at the endless blue. Simple, perfect, and very Nerja.
Nerja: Day 5 - Dolphins, Downpours & Dramatic Skies
Sometimes you just luck out. We’d planned a boat trip with Catamaran Tours from Caleta de Vélez, but halfway there my phone rang. A text message followed: the trip was cancelled — too few people had signed up. Following a quick family discussion in the car, we messaged back to ask how many extra tickets would make it viable. Two, they said. Done! Just like that, our sailing trip was back on.
And what a trip it was. The sun was shining, the wind was warm, and the three of us sprawled across the padded front deck, watching the coastline drift by while rain fell on the distant mountains. Then the catamaran turned south towards a fishing trawler, its wake alive with diving birds snatching their share of the catch. Even more exciting — dolphins! They playfully darted around the boat, breaching in the waves. We couldn’t stop smiling as we dangled in the front deck nets, dolphins leaping all around us. Absolutely magical — life didn’t feel like it could get any better.
After our incredible sailing adventure, we drove a little further along the coast to Karting del Sol in Torre del Mar for a dad-and-son race. They just managed to finish before the heavens opened. With rain sweeping down from the mountains, we took refuge at the Sabana Beach Club, listening to the downpour hammering the roof and watching water cascade from awnings and raffia umbrellas outside.
On the way back, we had to laugh at the two castles I’d spotted online while researching sights along the route. The solid square Castillo del Buho and the whimsical, Disney-esque Castillo de Calaceite are both tiny, but with a clever low-angle photo they can look like full-sized fortresses. Alas, as we passed them in torrential rain, we wimped out of the photo opportunity!
That night, Nerja gave us one last spectacle: an amazing thunderstorm. From our hilltop perch, we sat in the dark on our covered balcony, sheltered from the rain, and watched lightning illuminate the sky all around us. Each flash was followed by dramatic rumbles of thunder rolling across the valley. It was the perfect finale to a day of sunshine, dolphins, and stormy drama.
Nerja: Day 6 - Adrenaline & Absolute Chill
Today we split into two very different adventures. My husband set off with Local Experiences to tackle the Via Ferrata Zafarraya. His day was all about adrenaline — clambering up sheer rock faces, zip-lining across canyons, and soaking up jaw-dropping views from the heights. He came back buzzing, clearly thrilled by the challenge.
Meanwhile, my son and I took things at the opposite end of the spectrum. We hired sun loungers on Burriana Beach and settled in for a day of pure relaxation. Ice creams in hand, iced drinks at the ready, we dipped in and out of the sea whenever the sun got too warm. A guitarist appeared on the seafront, filling the air with music, and to top it all off — I even treated myself to a foot massage right there on the beach. Bliss.
Two very different days, but both equally perfect in their own way. Adrenaline for one, absolute chill for the others.
Nerja: Day 7 - Frigiliana Charm & a Candlelit Finale
For our final day, we headed due north of Nerja, winding up the twisty mountain road to Frigiliana. We began with the little tourist road train, weaving through the “new town.” Sitting on the back row, facing out towards the traffic, our son had the best time waving enthusiastically at passing cars and pedestrians. The commentary gave snippets about the village, but mostly we just soaked up the views and peeked into beautiful side streets.
Afterwards, we wandered up into the “old town” — largely pedestrianised and absolutely stunning. With its Moorish heritage, cobblestone streets, and whitewashed houses adorned with brightly painted doors, it felt like stepping back in time. The streets wound their way up the mountainside, lined with boutiques and souvenir shops. Needless to say, a few purchases were made, including a favourite — a little gecko crafted from wire. We paused for a Tinto de Verano on a terrace, gazing down over the village and out towards the sea. A quick trip to the loo brought a surprise: they’d been carved straight out of the rock! Only in Frigiliana.
Lunch was at The Garden Restaurant, which we’d spotted earlier. Its big open terrace offered sweeping views down the valley to the sea, and we sat in dappled shade under awnings enjoying Moroccan-spiced curries. Dessert was unforgettable — beautifully flavoured dates paired with cool, tangy labneh to balance the sweetness.
On the way back to the villa, we stopped at Pescadería El Artesano, recommended by David (of Via Ferrata fame), to pick up freshly caught tuna. The afternoon was spent swimming in the pool before retreating to the roof terrace with our books, watching the sun sink behind the hills.
Nerja: Final Thoughts - A Week Well Spent
And just like that, our week in Nerja came to an end — seven days of sunshine, sea swims, tapas feasts, mountain villages, and even dolphins. From candlelit dinners on the balcony to adventures high above the canyons, it was the perfect mix of relaxation and discovery.
Nerja: Useful Links
Nerja – Official tourism website by Nerja City Council
Casasol – Holiday property rental company focusing on Nerja, Andalusia
Nerja Caves – Jaw dropping caves
Alhambra – Official website for Alhambra Granada, be warned – there are lots of other websites which look more like the official website than the actual official website!!
Catamaran Tours – Boat trip from Caleta de Vélez
Karting del Sol – Go karting track in Torre del Mar
Local Experiences – For a Via Ferrata adventure
Frigiliana – Official tourism website for Frigiliana
