I think the best trip my husband and I have ever taken was a self‑drive adventure around Namibia – many, many years ago now – the sort of trip that stays with you forever. With our son now 13, and with the genuinely life‑changing difference ADHD medication has made for him, we decided it was finally the right moment to take him on safari.
A chat with Trailfinders quickly steered us towards the Eastern Cape in South Africa. It ticked every box, especially the big one: no anti malaria tablets required. I’m still haunted by the horrible reaction I once had to Larium.
We built the trip around a gentle start – a couple of easy days in Plettenberg Bay to recover from the journey – before heading off on safari. And because our son fell in love with snorkelling in the Maldives for my 50th, we decided to round things off with a beach escape in Mauritius, right by the Marine Blue Reserve. A little adventure, a little wildlife, a little turquoise‑water… the perfect trio.
Blog Contents
Missing Suitcase: Long Haul Chaos, a Woolworths Dash & an Emergency Wardrobe
Hog Hollow Country Lodge: Warm Welcome, Thoughtful Touches & Roaring Fires
The Crags Day Tour: Monkeyland Magic, Birds of Eden & Fabulous Rosé
Transfer to Pumba Water Lodge: Gorges & Windfarms
Pumba Water Lodge: Hippos, Lions & Star-Filled Skies
Seven Fountains Village: Community Strength, Humbling & Inspiring
Onwards to Mauritius: Farewells, Airport Stopover & Mauritius here we come
A long flight, barely any sleep, and then the news every traveller dreads: my suitcase had decided to stay behind in Heathrow. The boys’ bags arrived perfectly, but mine was off having its own adventure.
Cue a mad dash around Woolworths at Johannesburg airport (yes, Woolworths! I thought they’d vanished from the planet when they disappeared from the UK). I grabbed the essentials to survive the next 48 hours: underwear, a T‑shirt, a pair of trousers, a dress and a cossie. Once I was kitted out in my emergency wardrobe, we hopped onto our Airlink connection to Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth), hoping my suitcase would eventually decide to join us.
Hog Hollow Country Lodge: Warm Welcome, Thoughtful Touches & Roaring Fires
We were met at the airport by Liam, who whisked us away towards Hog Hollow Country Lodge near Plettenberg Bay. As soon as we left the city behind, the roads opened up into those long, straight stretches that make you want to exhale properly for the first time in hours. The landscape looked deceptively flat… until suddenly it wasn’t. Every so often we’d glide over a bridge and a dramatic gorge would appear beneath us, tumbling away into shadow.
The sun was sinking fast, throwing a soft golden glow over the chain of mountains that hugs the coastline. By the time we reached Hog Hollow it was almost dark – and a welcome drink on the boma deck beside a roaring log fire was exactly what our travel‑weary bodies needed after 31 hours on the go.
We were shown to our adjoining rooms, which were fabulous: a wraparound deck teasing us with the promise of a view we’d have to wait until morning to see. Inside, all the thoughtful little touches made us smile – homemade popcorn and biscuits, a log fire ready to be lit, and that cosy, quietly indulgent feeling of being properly looked after.
Dinner in the restaurant was delicious, and afterwards we wrapped ourselves in blankets and wandered back to the boma deck for another log fire and a nightcap. When we finally returned to our rooms, we found hot water bottles tucked into the beds, chocolates on the pillows, and even a book of bedtime stories. It was the perfect welcome to South Africa.
The Crags Day Tour: Monkeyland Magic, Birds of Eden & Fabulous Rosé
We woke up just in time to pull back the curtains and be greeted by the most magical sight – the sun slowly rising over the distant mountains, casting a soft golden glow across a sea of rainforest that seemed to roll all the way back to our deck. It was one of those moments where you just stand there, slightly stunned, thinking, “yes… this is exactly why we came”.
Breakfast on the deck was a treat in itself – a proper gourmet spread, sunshine warming our shoulders, and views that made lingering very easy indeed. But eventually we tore ourselves away and headed out for the day with our driver, Automan. I’d booked him through Cruise the Crags on the concierge’s recommendation, and after sharing a rough itinerary, Tor came back with an even better version – always a win.
Our first stop was Monkeyland, home to nine different species of monkeys and lemurs, all living freely within the sanctuary because they can’t return to the wild. Our guide was brilliant – full of quirky facts that our son soaked up like a sponge. One of our favourites: ring‑tailed lemurs always have 13 black and 13 white rings… and if they don’t, it’s because they’ve lost the tip of their tail in a fight! We watched a capuchin patiently crack a macadamia nut against a tree, completely focused on getting to the centre. Another monkey sported an Elvis‑worthy quiff, and a tiny three-day-old baby clung to her mother’s back – adorable.
Just across the car park was Birds of Eden, a vast netted canopy stretched across a valley, creating a world where birds fly “free” in every direction. You wander down and back up along a walkway, surrounded by a constant chorus of calls and flashes of colour. It was a fabulous couple of hours, ambling slowly and taking it all in. One little parrot was impossibly vibrant, another bird showed off the most stunning pink plumage, and then there was the mischievous one – instantly christened the “evil b@*t&rd” by my husband after it landed on his shoulder, tried to steal his sun hat, and then nipped his ear for good measure.
Next up was Tenikwa, an animal hospital and rehabilitation centre. Much of their work happens behind the scenes, but the guided tours give you a glimpse into the lives of animals who can’t return to the wild. The centre was founded by a couple who came to South Africa on honeymoon and simply never left – they fell head‑over‑heels for Africa and built a life around conservation. Romantic and inspiring in equal measure. Our son was captivated once again, listening intently to every fact the guide shared. A highlight for all of us was hearing the cheetahs purr – deep, rumbling, unmistakably feline.
Lunch was at Kay and Monty’s Vineyard, and what a fabulous spot it was. The restaurant sits in a barn with shaded verandas all around, overlooking a lake and mountains beyond. We tucked into flatbreads and salads, followed by a heavenly white chocolate and macadamia gelato. Their wines were excellent too, and on a hot sunny day, the ice‑cold Pretty Polly rosé was perfection.
It was hard to leave such a beautiful setting, but onwards we went to Nature’s Valley. We wandered along the sandy beach, cooling our toes in the surf, before heading inland to the lagoon. Our son decided it would be a brilliant idea to walk across the mouth of the lagoon to the deserted beach beyond… just as a bigger wave surged through, leaving us with one very wet but very happy child. Families were paddle‑boarding along the lagoon, and in the warm afternoon light a soft sea fret settled over everything, giving Nature’s Valley an ethereal, dreamlike feel.
Having a driver made the whole day wonderfully relaxed – no map reading, no navigating, just enjoying the vineyard at lunchtime and letting Automan take care of everything. He even had a towel ready for our soggy son.
Back at Hog Hollow, we briefly considered a dip in the pool but weren’t quite brave enough – it was decidedly cool – so we opted for a massage instead, which felt like the perfect end to the day.
Meanwhile, thanks to Claude’s advice to contact the ground handler directly, my husband managed to track down my very delayed suitcase. With the promise of cash, it finally arrived at our hotel more than 48 hours after we’d landed. If we’d left it to the “system”, it wouldn’t have reached us until the following day at the earliest – long after we’d moved on to our safari.
Trailfinders had suggested spending a couple of days in Plettenberg Bay before heading out on safari, just to unwind and recover from the travel, and it was absolutely the right call. The Crags – and Hog Hollow with its incredible team – were the perfect place to ease gently into holiday mode.
Transfer to Pumba Water Lodge: Gorges & Windfarms
Liam was back at the wheel to take us to our next stop, Pumba Water Lodge. On the way, we paused at Storms River Bridge, which is one of those places that makes you instinctively slow down. Walking across the bridge, you look straight into a dramatic valley carved out over millennia – the rock literally torn apart, leaving a jagged zipper of cliffs with a brackish ribbon of river far below. It’s the kind of view that makes you feel very small in the best possible way.
From there we carried on, stopping for lunch at the Ou Meul Windfarm service station. This is not your typical UK motorway stop with limp sandwiches and fluorescent lighting. Instead, it’s a gorgeous farm‑style bakery café serving homemade pies, with shaded seating overlooking a lake and the wind turbines turning lazily in the distance. A surprisingly lovely little pause in the journey.
Pumba Water Lodge: Hippos, Lions & Star-Filled Skies
We arrived at Pumba Water Lodge with just enough time for a fleeting glance at our suite before a quick turnaround to head out on the afternoon game drive. The dash was worth it. We were greeted by our guide, Mabootee, and climbed aboard a mammoth Land Rover with tiered seating designed to give everyone the best view.
Within minutes we were at a watering hole, watching hippos in all their glory – sunbathing, swimming, yawning, and marking their territory in the most comical way imaginable, spinning their tails as they sprayed everywhere. The grunting chorus of the males trying to prove who was boss was unforgettable, and in amongst them the babies lolled happily. Hippos were the reason I’d chosen Pumba Water Lodge, so I was absolutely delighted.
From there, the drive unfolded with sightings of warthogs, wildebeest, zebra and antelope. At one point I thought I’d spotted an ostrich (only to be told there are none in the reserve), and my son was convinced he’d seen giraffes – which turned out to be shafts of sunlight on a building. But then, just as the teasing reached its peak, we saw the real thing: giraffes striding gracefully across the bush in the warm glow of the setting sun. It was breathtaking.
On our return we settled into our most incredible 2 bedroom suite complete with plunge pool (far too cold), an outside shower and even a little spiral staircase down to the steam room looking out over the lake.
Dinner was followed by star‑gazing. with so little light pollution, the Milky Way stretched across the sky in staggering detail, making us feel wonderfully small and insignificant. Through the night we could hear hippos, and in the morning, as we pulled back the curtains, a pod was right there in the lake below our balcony.
Our next safari drive started early, wrapped in warm lodge ponchos with hot water bottles, we huddled against the chill until the sun rose. On a hunch, Mabootee suddenly changed direction, and moments later we were rewarded with two lions basking by a watering hole – a rare white male and his sister, grooming and snoozing in the morning light. Sitting so close, peeking into their world, was extraordinary. It’s hard to believe they simply see you as part of the vehicle rather than a potential snack.
The adventure continued into the forested section of the reserve, where we not only saw elephants but heard them too — branches cracking as they fed and moved through the trees. Higher up, in more open land, we found rhinos grazing peacefully. These prehistoric‑looking giants, contentedly munching grass, were mesmerising.
Then came a stop with a Ranger’s Special: mugs of coffee, hot chocolate and Amarula, paired with freshly baked muffins looking out over the plains. A perfect pause before returning to the lodge for breakfast.
The rest of the morning was blissfully slow. We opened the sliding glass doors of our suite, let the warm breeze drift in, and curled up with our books to recharge before the next safari. It was the perfect rhythm of adventure and relaxation.
As the sun dipped low, we found ourselves watching a pride of lions by the watering hole – one male and four females, stretched out lazily, yawning and rolling over in the fading light. Then, with no warning, one of the females rose and began prowling, soon followed by the others. The male, of course, stayed put, looking thoroughly unbothered. Out of the dusk, six giraffes appeared, striding gracefully across the landscape. They paused, clearly aware of the lions nearby, and the tension was palpable. Knowing those hidden lionesses were out hunting made it almost too much to watch. The giraffes edged forward, stopped, and then – to our great relief – turned back, changing their plans and living to see another day.
It was incredible to just sit back and watch the elephant family antics, seeing all the different relationships. We also had the privilege of silently watching an elephant sleep. At one point she seemed to slip into elephant yoga, leaning forward on her trunk and lifting a foot, all while still snoozing. When she finally woke, she let out an almighty fart (to much laughter in the Land Rover) before rumbling loudly to wake the rest of the herd. They shuffled across the road in front of us, complete with the most adorable baby.
One morning, we stopped by a watering hole for a cup of Ranger’s Special – coffee, hot chocolate and Amarula – as the sun rose. In the dried mud were fresh paw prints of a lioness alongside the huge impressions of an elephant. It felt like reading the morning news of the bush.
At one point we sat and watched five rhinos grazing peacefully, though two of them had other ideas. They locked horns in a battle of dominance, pushing and shoving with all their weight. One rhino kept losing ground but refused to give up, returning again and again for another round – determined, but to no avail. It was fascinating to watch their stubborn persistence.
A little further on, we came across two giraffes – an adult and a youngster – engaged in “necking.” They stretched and bent their long necks around each other in slow, deliberate movements. For the baby, it was clearly practice for the future, learning the skills it would one day need to assert its own dominance. Gentle training now, but a glimpse of the battles to come.
Another evening, we parked on a grassy plain as the sun set. Mabootee set up a makeshift bar across the back of the Land Rover, and we sipped G&Ts while soaking in the sights and sounds all around. Pure magic.
The middle of the days slowed to a gentler rhythm. We read our books in the shade on our decking or curled up in armchairs with the huge folding doors wide open, letting the breeze drift through. One afternoon, a hippo grunted loudly, and when we looked over the balcony, we realised he’d been sunbathing just below us before lumbering back into the lake.
Another day, there we were, happily reading our books with all the sliding doors open, when suddenly we had an unexpected visitor. A cheeky monkey darted straight into our room, heading directly for the sweets left untouched on our bedside table. Without hesitation, he perched himself on the bed, tore off the wrapper, and brazenly munched away on the nougat as if he owned the place!
A bit of chasing ensued – complete with him baring his teeth in protest – before he finally scampered back out. Needless to say, we carried on reading afterwards with the doors firmly shut. Lesson learned: never underestimate the sweet tooth of a monkey!
Seven Fountains Village: Community Strength, Humbling & Inspiring
One of our midday excursions was to visit Seven Fountains village, where many of the lodge staff live, and to see the projects supported by the resort’s foundation. We were shown around by the incredible Noma – truly the life force of the village. She’s a mentor, guiding and supporting initiatives that the foundation helps bring to life.
At first, I’ll admit we felt self‑conscious. There we were, tourists staying in luxury lodges with hot showers, stepping into a village where families live in hand‑built corrugated or mud homes, with only five running taps for the entire community. But Noma quickly reassured us: visitors are welcome, and the jobs created through tourism are vital for improving quality of life. Her warmth and pride put us at ease, and we left feeling humbled and in awe of the resilience and creativity of the people of Seven Fountains.
We saw first‑hand some of the initiatives dreamed up and run by the women of the village – a soup kitchen, a beanie‑knitting collective, and a vegetable‑growing scheme. All impressive, practical, and community‑driven. There was also a youth centre with internet access and a printer, giving pupils a place to do homework and broaden their horizons.
We popped into the social centre, then ducked into the shop next door to buy treats to take into the school. At the primary school, it was break time, and we were instantly surrounded by grinning children eager to hold our hands and pepper us with questions. They were hilarious – at one point they decided to try and lift the rugby‑playing Welshman in our group. Needless to say, they didn’t stand a chance, but the laughter was infectious. In the library, the children sang and danced, finishing with a traditional dance performed by a group of boys. We left uplifted and delighted by their energy and joy.
Our final stop was the crèche, where the little ones were more subdued but joined in happily with a rendition of “Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes”, followed by high‑fives as we said goodbye. The crèche itself was another initiative led by the women of the village, supported by the foundation. It provides pre‑school education and nutritious meals, helping prepare the children for primary school and giving them the best possible start.
We came away deeply moved – inspired by Noma, impressed by the women’s initiatives, and touched by the children’s spirit. It was a visit that will stay with us for a long time
Onwards to Mauritius: Farewells, Airport Stopover & Mauritius here we come
Sadly, our time at Pumba Water Lodge came to an end, with the only disappointment being not seeing the elusive cheetahs. We said heartfelt goodbyes to our wonderful safari ranger, Mabootee, and to our fellow adventurers from the game drives, before being driven back to Port Elizabeth for our onward journey.
From there, we caught a flight to Johannesburg, where we stayed overnight at the City Lodge. It was absolutely perfect – right within the airport complex and just a short walk from the terminal – making it the ideal stopover ahead of our early morning flight to Mauritius.
South Africa: Big Skies, Big Hearts & Big Memories
South Africa swept us up from the moment we arrived – a place of big skies, bigger landscapes, and even bigger hearts. From the dramatic gorges around Storms River to the peaceful mornings at Pumba Water Lodge, every day felt like stepping into a nature documentary, only with the added joy of hot chocolate, Amarula, and ponchos to keep us warm.
The safaris were unforgettable: lions lazing in the sun, elephants rumbling themselves awake, and giraffes gliding across the bush at golden hour. We learned quickly that no two drives were ever the same – one moment you’re watching rhinos argue about who’s boss, the next you’re laughing as an elephant practices yoga in its sleep. And always, there was Mabootee, guiding us with quiet confidence and an uncanny ability to know exactly where the magic would happen.
But it wasn’t just the wildlife that stayed with us. Visiting Seven Fountains village was a humbling reminder of resilience, community, and the power of people working together. Meeting Noma – the heartbeat of the village – and seeing the women’s initiatives, the children’s joy, and the pride woven through every project added a depth to our trip we hadn’t expected. It grounded everything, reminding us that South Africa’s beauty isn’t only in its landscapes, but in its people.
South Africa wasn’t just a destination – it was a chapter of our holiday that changed pace, changed perspective, and left us already dreaming of when we might return.
