Our Finland adventure actually began on the sofa, watching Monica Galetti and Rob Rinder exploring the Wilderness Hotel Inari on Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby. The snowy forests, the frozen lakes, the outdoor adventures – it all looked utterly magical. We loved the idea of trying all those activities for ourselves. At the same time, we were also itching for a ski trip… but with limited annual leave, we couldn’t squeeze in two separate holidays. So we did the only sensible thing: we combined them.
After a bit of research, we booked with Crystal Ski – skiing as our main focus, with plenty of room for all the extra Lapland experiences.
We chose Ruka for a few reasons. First, the ski season is wonderfully long – mid‑October right through to early May – which meant we could be confident of proper snow over February half term. We also loved the idea of the convenience to the slopes, and with our son now 13, the option of a two‑bedroom apartment felt perfect. I even priced up a similar trip to the Alps and nearly fell off my chair – it was almost double! Yes, skiing in Finland is different: gentle fells rather than dramatic mountains, but for a one week trip we were confident there’d be more than enough to keep us happy.
I booked all our excursions in advance, so once we arrived the only thing left to cross our fingers for was the Northern Lights.
Blog Contents
Ruka Village: Snowy Strolls, Warm Welcomes & Nordic Magic
Ruka Ski Chalets: Cosy Comforts, Sauna Bliss & a Balcony Surprise
Eating in Ruka: Cosy Lunches, Snowy Suppers & Local Delights
Skiing in Ruka: Quiet Slopes, Arctic Magic & a Lot of Layers
River Floating: Sunshine, Tranquility & a Very Buoyant Adventure
Mountain Sauna: Steam, Snow & a Cocktail with a View
Ice Karting: Snow Drifts, Drifting & Podium Finish
Snowmobiling: Forest Trails, Frozen Laughter & a Blueberry Cake Finale
Husky Dog Sledging: Frozen Forests, Flying Paws & a Lot of Barking
Ruka Village: Snowy Strolls, Warm Welcomes & Nordic Magic
Ruka is delightfully different from the usual ski resorts we’ve visited. The transfer from Kuusamo airport was barely 30 minutes – such a treat after years of long, winding (travel sick) journeys up into the Alps. The landscape is almost completely flat, with the fells rising gently out of the snow like soft white humps, and the whole resort tucked neatly around them. It feels unique, calm, and beautifully Nordic.
The village centre itself is compact but full of everything you need: restaurants, cafés, bars, ski shops, a lovely little souvenir shop, and a surprisingly well‑stocked supermarket. We’d been told there was a bigger (and cheaper) supermarket just outside the centre, but honestly, the K‑Mart in the village was so convenient we never bothered going anywhere else. There’s also a medical centre (thankfully untested by us!) and the main information centre even has a little pharmacy cabinet for essentials. A taxi office and Otaxi stand sit right in the middle, and we made good use of them for our daytime excursions.
One of my favourite little touches was the wooden viewing rotunda overlooking the slopes. You spiral up the outside staircase and get a gorgeous view over the slopes – although you won’t linger long because it is nippy up there!
Our accommodation block was perfectly placed, just a short stroll across to the chairlift and gondola. Between the hotel and the lifts sits a frozen lake, which becomes a “sledge‑around” – essentially a giant icy roundabout full of laughing children spinning off their sledges and equally amused parents slipping over as they try to keep up with demands for “faster, faster!”
Ruka also has the Ruka Coaster, a mountain coaster that twists and turns its way up the slope opposite the gondola. Show your ski pass and you get 50% off. It looked brilliant… but the queue moved at glacial speed. We tried several times, counted the people ahead of us, did the maths, and realised we’d be standing in the freezing cold for well over an hour and a half. In the end, we gave up and were grateful to get a refund. The Ruka Coaster team could definitely take a leaf out of Zip World’s book in Betws‑y‑Coed – they whisk people through at lightning speed.
We hired our boots and skis from Piste, right by the gondola. Even though we’d sent all our sizes and details ahead of time, it was still the usual first‑day‑of‑a‑ski‑holiday chaos – but that’s all part of the charm, isn’t it?
And of course, we had high hopes for the Northern Lights. We had the Aurora Alert Realtime app primed and ready… but sadly, the skies stayed stubbornly quiet. Naturally, the night after we got home, the app pinged like mad. Sod’s Law is alive and well in Lapland!
Ruka Ski Chalets: Cosy Comforts, Sauna Bliss & a Balcony Surprise
I’ll be honest – when we first walked into our Ruka Ski Chalets apartment and I stepped out onto the balcony, my heart sank a little. We were on the first floor, tucked right into the corner of the L‑shaped building, and the ground‑floor roof jutted out in front of us with a giant extraction vent taking centre stage. Beyond that? The car park. Not quite the dreamy “watch the skiers glide past with a hot chocolate in hand” view I’d pictured.
But once I’d had my little moment, I realised that if you mentally edited out the car park, there were lovely views – a run of trees straight ahead, and another cluster off to the right. And as it turns out, if you want a proper piste view, you need to book one of the larger apartments. Despite the initial disappointment, we quickly got used to it, and the views everywhere outside the apartment were fabulous anyway.
Inside, the apartment was clean, compact and simple – definitely more IKEA than Heals – but absolutely perfect for a ski holiday where you’re out all day and ready to collapse by the evening.
We had a cosy double room for my husband and I, and a bunk room for our son, with a double bed on the bottom and a single on top. The bunk room sits in the middle of the apartment with no windows, which could be a deal‑breaker for some kids, but ours loves enclosed spaces and was perfectly happy in his little den.
The lounge/kitchen/diner was small but well thought out, with an oven, hob, dishwasher and fridge‑freezer – everything we needed for simple meals.
But the real star of the show? The bathroom.
It had a washing machine, a drying cupboard (absolute game‑changer!) and… a sauna.
The sauna became our nightly ritual. Once our son was asleep, my husband and I would sneak in, add a splash of Rento Birch sauna oil to the bucket, and ladle water over the stones until the whole room filled with the most gorgeous birch‑scented steam. Then we’d dash out onto the balcony to cool down in the -15°C air before heading back in for round two. Bliss.
The drying cupboard was another revelation – perfect for warming up ski gear before heading out, and along with the washing machine meant fresh thermals and ski socks every day. A rare and wonderful luxury on a ski trip!
Downstairs, the boot room had a lockable cupboard for our hired skis and boots, plus a toboggan we could borrow – a lovely little touch.
Eating in Ruka: Cosy Lunches, Snowy Suppers & Local Delights
We chose to go self‑catering, which actually suits us perfectly. There’s something wonderfully indulgent about having breakfast in your pyjamas on holiday – such a contrast to the usual weekday scramble. With the lifts not opening until 09:30, our mornings were slow, cosy and unhurried, while we tucked into bowls of porridge with lingonberries and lingonberry jam. Probably not authentically Finnish… but delicious all the same.
Knowing alcohol is pricey in Finland, we stocked up at duty free with a bottle of gin and a bottle of Baileys, then used the K‑Mart in the village for everything else. It had everything we needed, and because the slopes were so close – and the temperatures often dipped to -15°C – we came back to the apartment every day for lunch. Our go‑to became dark seeded rye bread piled with cheeses and meats. Again, possibly not very Finnish, but absolutely delicious and wonderfully hearty after a morning on the fells.
Because the slopes stay open until at least 19:00 every night, we tended to eat early – either up the mountain or in the village. And honestly? It was some of the best food we’ve ever had on a ski holiday. Usually at least one of us ends up disappointed with a dish somewhere along the way, but not in Finland. Everything was fresh, local, beautifully cooked, and even as a vegetarian I never struggled.
One thing we learned on our very first night: book ahead. Even eating early, restaurants were filling up fast, and some were booked out several days in advance. It may have been the perfect storm of UK and Finnish half term colliding, but it’s definitely worth planning.
Our favourite foodie spots
Restaurant Vespino Perfectly located on the ground floor of our apartment block. Delicious homemade pasta, and I adored the melanzane — I wasn’t convinced when I saw it paired with sweet potato purée on the menu, but the chef knew best. It was so good.
Wild Food Restaurant Rukan Kumasi Also in our building. My husband and son loved the reindeer burger, while I had the crispy Finnish squeaky cheese burger. Both came with an incredible spruce mayonnaise — it genuinely tasted like spruce needles smell, and was amazing with the fries.
Restaurant Camp Kitchen and Bar So good we went twice… and ordered exactly the same both times. Ribs for the boys, and a carrot‑and‑fennel dish for me that my description simply doesn’t do justice. This is also where we discovered Hartwall Original Long Drink – Finnish gin with grapefruit soda. The waitress told us it’s traditionally enjoyed on “the National Greyest Day of the Year” and is nicknamed “concrete water.” Despite the name, it’s delicious!
Pizzeria Ruka A lively, bustling pizza spot you can walk to – or ski down the black run to if you’re feeling brave. Huge wood‑fired oven, great atmosphere.
Base Eat & Heat Right at the top of the fell with a huge glass window overlooking the snow park. We ate while watching brave souls catch air and attempt tricks. This is also where I had a sauna, and from our table we could see people relaxing in the little warm outdoor pool. My Apple Base cocktail – vodka, cider, cinnamon syrup and ginger beer – was perfect for a snowy winter evening.
Café & Pinseria Ruka I became very fond of this cafe , happily sitting by the back window with a coffee and a Finnish bakery treat, watching the snow drift past.
Ruka Peak We also stopped multiple times at Ruka Peak, just beside run 37 – the perfect place for a hot chocolate and a munkki (Finnish for donut), fresh from the fryer and still warm. The views from the big windows were gorgeous… and even the loo has a view! They’ve installed mirrors on the back of the cubicle doors so you don’t miss a thing.
We hadn’t really thought of Finland as a foodie destination before this trip – but we were very pleasantly surprised.
Skiing in Ruka: Quiet Slopes, Arctic Magic & a Lot of Layers
Skiing in Ruka isn’t like skiing in the Alps – and we knew that going in. Instead of dramatic jagged peaks, you ski across four gentle fells rising out of a vast, flat, snow‑covered landscape. Forests stretch out in every direction, and the whole place feels wonderfully calm and otherworldly. One big advantage? The airport is only 30 minutes away, which is practically unheard of for a ski trip.
Ruka’s ski season is impressively long – October right through to May – thanks partly to their clever snow‑storage system over the summer. The lifts open at 09:30 and stay open until 19:00 every night (and until 23:00 on Fridays!), all beautifully floodlit. The pistes were immaculately groomed and, best of all, blissfully empty. Even during Finnish school holidays we barely queued.
There are 41 runs in total, mostly blues and reds with the odd black thrown in. It’s not the endless, interconnected mileage of the Alps, but for a one‑week holiday – especially when you’re mixing in ice karting, snowmobiling and husky sledding – it’s absolutely perfect.
The pistes are mostly tree‑lined, which I love, and dotted with little surprises. On run 26, for example, you can stop to visit reindeer in a corral. Scattered across the fells are cosy wooden huts with roaring fires, or simple benches around open flames where you can warm up and use the communal makkaratikku (roasting forks) to toast marshmallows or grill grillimakkara – Finnish frankfurter‑style sausages you buy pre‑cooked and simply reheat. One hut we opened expecting a fire was instead filled with an ethereal light‑and‑sound display. Only in Finland!
It is cold – properly cold – and –15°C wasn’t unusual. We made regular hot‑chocolate‑and‑munkki (Finnish donut) stops, and I can honestly say I’ve never eaten so many donuts in one week. Thank goodness for the calorie burn of skiing and Arctic temperatures.
I wore silk glove liners, fleecy liners, ski mittens and hand warmers – and finally discovered what the little zip pockets on ski mittens are actually for! I also became a convert to foot warmers, which stick to the bottom of your ski socks. Every ski shop and even the supermarket sold them, so we were never short.
Even with all that, my hands and feet still got cold. But during river floating, our guide shared a brilliant trick – apparently from the Norwegian army (though who knows if that part is true!). Stand with your arms straight down and slightly out, wrists turned so your palms face away from your body – basically a penguin pose – and then pump your shoulders up and down to force blood into your hands. I looked completely ridiculous doing this on the slopes… but it works!
So yes, skiing in Finland is very different from the Alps – but it has its own magical Arctic vibe. It’s quieter, gentler, more atmospheric, and it gives you a skiing holiday plus so much more.
River Floating: Sunshine, Tranquility & a Very Buoyant Adventure
My husband and son completely wimped out of the river floating – their words, not mine – but I was determined, so off I went on my own while they spent the morning skiing. I joined a tour with Ruka Adventures, who conveniently picked me up from a nearby hotel. First stop was their activity base to get kitted out in Arctic suits and dry suits. There were two types to choose from, and I’m very glad I opted for the warmer (and slightly more awkward) one. Both had integrated boots, but the warmer version also had built‑in thermal gloves and a head mask. Getting into them was a comedy show in itself, but at least we didn’t have to worry about icy water sneaking in through neck or wrist seals, or soaking into neoprene.
Once we were zipped, clipped and buoyancy‑aided, it was time for the water. Our guide, Marco, cheerfully informed us that this stretch of river is called Testicles Rapids. I genuinely don’t think he was joking. We were incredibly lucky – it was our first day of sunshine, and the spring‑fed lake (the reason it wasn’t frozen solid) shimmered in the morning light. We slipped into the river that flows out of the lake and began drifting gently downstream. The banks were piled high with snow, the trees frosted white, and the water was crystal clear… and absolutely freeeeeeeezing, even through all the layers.
You simply leaned your head back onto the buoyancy aid and let the winter stillness wash over you. It was one of those rare moments where you feel completely present – senses alive, mind quiet, body both chilled and oddly relaxed. Pure Arctic calm.
Getting out of the river, however, was another story. The dry suit was so buoyant I couldn’t get my feet down onto the riverbed no matter how hard I tried. For a moment I had visions of drifting off towards Russia, the Bering Sea and finally the Arctic Ocean, but Marco hauled me back to reality and helped me to shore.
The tour was meant to include a second float, but everyone was frozen solid, so we gratefully headed back to the van for warm berry juice. Marco had to pour hot water over our dry suit zips because they’d frozen shut, and as he helped peel the suits off, the outer layer – soaked from the river – froze instantly in the cold air. The discarded suits stood in eerie, human‑shaped piles on the ground like a heap of frozen bodies. Equal parts hilarious and ghoulish.
Once we’d thawed out, we headed back to the lake in our snow suits to take in the view and snap a few photos. The actual time in the water was short compared to all the gearing up and de‑suiting, but I’m still so glad I did this unusual, chilly, utterly memorable experience
Mountain Sauna: Steam, Snow & a Cocktail with a View
I’d really fancied doing one of those lakeside sauna excursions with a dip in an ice hole, but every option I found was in the evening – not ideal with dinner plans and a 13‑year‑old in tow. Then, while trundling up a chairlift one morning, I spotted something even better: Base Eat & Heat, perched right at the top of the fell, complete with its own sauna. People inside were happily waving at skiers passing by on the lifts. A quick bit of online sleuthing later and suddenly I had a new plan.
So off I went – towel, swimming costume and flip‑flops all stuffed into my backpack – while my husband and son carried on skiing. I took the gondola up, checked in at Base, and headed to the changing area. There were loads of free lockers, so no faffing about with where to stash my salopettes, helmet, goggles and the rest. There were even extra lockers in the bar area for phones.
The sauna itself was enormous, with a full wall of glass looking straight out over the slopes. As I sat on the wooden benches ladling water onto the coals, I watched the whole mountain come to life: animated conversations on the chairlift, teenagers messing about and nearly falling off the T‑bar, and over in Ruka Park, snowboarders and skiers launching themselves off rails and jumps. I even saw someone do a perfect back somersault and land it cleanly – very impressive from the comfort of a toasty sauna.
Once I was thoroughly cooked, it was a quick shower and then a plunge into the outdoor ice pool – very brief, very bracing – before slipping into the little heated open‑air pool. And because when in Finland you absolutely should do as the Finns do, I headed to the bar for a cocktail to enjoy in the warm water. A Polar Kiss: pink Finnish gin, cranberry juice, tonic, lime, lingonberries and a sprig of spruce. Utterly delicious and very on‑brand for a snowy mountaintop.
I spent the next two hours rotating between sauna, ice pool and heated pool, completely chilled out – the only interruption being my husband hollering my name as he was dragged past on the lift outside!
It was a fabulous couple of hours, and I floated back onto the slopes afterwards feeling totally revitalised.
Ice Karting: Snow Drifts, Drifting & Podium Finish
With our son being a keen kart racer back home, ice karting was an absolute must for our Finland itinerary. I booked directly with Lammintupa Winter Village, and we hopped in a taxi from Ruka to their centre, where we were kitted out in thermal suits and crash helmets.
We started with three practice laps to get a feel for the track before moving into a seven‑minute qualifying session. It was brilliant fun – karting on ice is nothing like karting on road track. The good news is that when you spin (and you will spin), you glide gracefully into a soft snow drift rather than a wall of tyres. After a few laps we all got the hang of steering into the skid and drifting around corners, and it was such a thrill sliding across the ice so close to the ground.
After a quick break, we lined up on the grid for our “Grand Prix”. Something was clearly amiss when our son appeared behind me in 7th place – definitely not where he’d qualified – but before we could investigate, the lights went green and we were off. The race was fast, chaotic and enormous fun: dodging people spinning out, trying to overtake without taking anyone with you, and attempting to keep the kart vaguely pointing in the right direction.
Despite the mix‑up, our son stormed through the field and finished a very respectable second place. We later discovered someone else had accidentally jumped into his kart and taken his rightful grid slot. Thankfully he took it all in his stride – especially since he still managed to beat both Mum and Dad!
A short, sharp burst of adrenaline and a brilliant activity for anyone who loves racing.
Snowmobiling: Forest Trails, Frozen Laughter & a Blueberry Cake Finale
We were all keen to try snowmobiling, so we booked a guided tour at Lammintupa Winter Village and arranged a taxi from Ruka in advance. Our son was a bit disappointed that he wasn’t old enough to drive, but he quickly got over it once he realised being a passenger was still pretty thrilling. Because the tour uses public snow tracks, we had to bring our driving licences – and with it being Finnish school holidays, we were told the tracks were busier than usual and the police were out in force.
Our guide was lovely – Finnish, but with a hint of Australian twang after a couple of years living there. We were bundled into Arctic suits and crash helmets, given a thorough safety briefing, and then off we went in a little convoy of six snowmobiles into the forest. It was absolutely beautiful: deep snow everywhere, trees heavy with white, and narrow winding tracks weaving through the woods. We only occasionally passed another snowmobile heading the other way, which made it feel wonderfully remote.
Halfway through we stopped for a break – partly to warm up, partly to let people swap drivers, and partly so everyone could dive into the deep snowdrifts.
Then we set off again… but not for long. One couple had swapped drivers, and within minutes they’d somehow veered off the main track and down a snowy bank. Thankfully both were fine, and so was the snowmobile (especially as the excess is €1000). Cue a bit of excitement as the machine had to be hauled back up. It turns out the loops on the front skis are actually handholds for exactly this scenario. With teamwork, brute strength and our guide’s expertise, the snowmobile was soon back on the track. The poor driver, however, was completely put off and handed the “reins” straight back to their partner.
The rest of the journey was smooth and scenic – sadly no bears or wolves, as our son had hoped, but we did spot a team of huskies pulling a sledge, which only made us more excited for our own husky day later in the week.
Back at camp, we headed into a cosy autiotupa (wilderness hut) with a roaring central fire. We warmed up with hot chocolate and warm berry juice, followed by sausages cooked over the flames, little vegetable pastries, and a giant slice of blueberry cake that was so good. It was the perfect end to our snowmobiling adventure.
Husky Dog Sledging: Frozen Forests, Flying Paws & a Lot of Barking
Of all the activities on offer, the one our son had been counting down to was husky dog sledging. So, back we went to Lammintupa Winter Village via an OTaxi. As soon as we arrived, the huskies were already in full performance mode – harnessed to their sledges, barking and jumping with anticipation of the run ahead. You could feel the energy before you even stepped out of the car.
We had a quick briefing: passengers must keep their hands inside the sledge, and drivers – who stand on the rails and hold the handlebar – must keep a firm foot on the brake when the huskies are first released, otherwise the dogs will take off and the driver will be left behind in a cartoon-style cloud of snow. We were also told not to pet the dogs beforehand because they were far too excited; we would have to wait until after the run.
At the very last moment, our cheeky son decided that Dad would make a far better musher and swapped himself into the passenger seat of his sledge. That left me driving solo – and suddenly very aware that my main job was to keep my foot on the brake so my enthusiastic team didn’t overtake the entire convoy. The upside? With only me on board, the huskies powered up the hills effortlessly, needing just the occasional token push from me (more out of guilt than necessity).
Once we set off properly, the experience was nothing short of magical. The dogs were powerful, fast, and clearly loving every second, and as we glided through the snowy forest, the noise of the snowmobiles faded away until all I could hear was the soft swoosh of the sledge runners carving through the snow.
We’d booked the 5km route – about half an hour – and it was the perfect length. Unlike snowmobiles, there are no heated handlebars, and I found myself concentrating intensely on braking just enough, especially downhill where the sledge can creep up on the dogs. The last thing I wanted was to bump into one of those beautiful creatures. We paused halfway for anyone who wanted to swap drivers, then set off again, weaving through the trees in a snowy blur.
Back at the centre, we were finally allowed to shower the dogs with our kiitos (“thank you” in Finnish). Up close, you could really see their differences – from the fluffiness of their coats to the colours of their eyes and the unique markings on their faces. My favourite was Ragnor, a handsome, vibrant soul who leaned into every ear rub with pure delight.
After the run, we warmed up in a little cabin with a crackling wood burner. Lunch was simple and perfect: warm berry juice, coffee, homemade soup, and Finnish rye bread with local cheese. As we ate, one of the guides told us all about the 150 dogs they care for – from tiny pups to retirees. The amount of work, love, and organisation involved was astonishing, and we peppered her with questions until we realised our tour time had vanished.
We wandered to Lammintupa’s main café for another hot drink and some pastries we absolutely didn’t need but thoroughly enjoyed.
We returned to Ruka with a spring in our step, completely in awe of the huskies who had given us such joy – and who genuinely seemed to revel in the adventure just as much as we did. What started as an activity for our son turned into a real highlight for me too.
Ruka: A Snowy Adventure
We had the most wonderful week in Ruka – a skiing holiday that turned out to be so much more than just skiing. The days were full of unexpected delights: steaming cups of warm berry juice, freshly baked munkki, and the pure joy of discovering “sledge‑abouts”. We embraced the full Winter‑wonderland experience, from the thrill of icy rivers and plunge pools to the soothing heat of saunas that thawed us from the inside out.
What really stayed with us, though, were the people. Finns may be naturally reserved, but they are quietly warm and genuinely welcoming, and time and again they made us feel completely at home in their snowy corner of the world. It was a week of adventure, laughter, and simple pleasures – the kind of holiday that lingers long after you’ve returned.
